Southwest Ireland Golfing Journal: Views Come Cheap
"Views come cheap in Ireland," infused our host, Paddy O’Looney, in a matter-of-fact tone.
As with so much of Ireland, I did not fully understand or appreciate the depth of his simple words at that time, but have since come to the conclusion that a golfing trip with friends to Ireland, if not a life-changing journey, then it is at least life-affirming.
Our trip concentrated on Ireland’s stunning southwest, home of perhaps the finest collection of golf courses anywhere in the world. Our focus was upon Ireland’s famous links courses, a couple of gems that seemed to avoided global scrutiny (until now) due to their remote location and a couple of Irish parkland courses that deserve particular note. Along the way, we were met with Irish warmth and hospitality that was without comparison. I have had the honor of traveling all over the world reviewing golf courses and can attest to the fact that the Irish people are the most friendly and welcoming of any who’s threshold I have crossed. Their charity of spirit is simply without limits (this point is demonstrated in the story of our car breaking down in the middle of the Irish countryside and the efforts the village made to make us feel at home; in Part 2).
Such as it is, it is easier for me to fly from Boston’s Logan Airport to Shannon, Ireland, then to try to fly from my home to California. My flight touched
down in Shannon about thirty-minutes ahead of schedule at about 5:30 AM. Shaking off the effects of a sleepless night spent rather on adrenaline and anticipation,
we eagerly climbed into our caravan and headed off to the Killarney Golf and Fish Club (www.killarney-golf.com) to launch our journey. Under brilliant
blue skies and puffy white clouds we set off on the championship Killeen Course to sharpen our blunted golfing swords. The Killeen Course is set in a
magnificent lakeside (it looks distinctively like a Scottish loch) and mountain setting. Behind a genteel veneer lies a 7,123 yard, par 72, parkland style golf
course that called for demanding shot values and was the perfect start to our golfing odyssey.
That night we checked in for the first night of two at The Malton House hotel (www.TheMalton.com) in the heart of
Killarney. Killarney is an excellent local to base oneself due to its central location to so much of Ireland’s southwest and
its array of pubs, restaurants, shops and points of cultural significance. The Malton House was the type of accommodation
that one should both start and finish their trip with. It was regal and gracious, housed in a building that dates back
to the late 1600’s, yet it made us feel completely comfortable, as if you were invited to stay a couple of nights at a friend’s
mansion. After our efforts to get to Ireland and a hard day spent on the Killeen course, The
Malton’s heavenly bed put me into a sleep that I thought I would never again awake from.
The dawn of the Irish morning brought with it the obligatory "full Irish breakfast" that was more than enough to fuel us through lunch time (frankly, I think a full Irish breakfast could fuel the space shuttle), replete with great enthusiasm for the golfing adventure that was come. Today, we are setting off for the Dooks Golf Club (www.Dooks.com).
Every trip to Ireland is a journey of discovery, no matter how many times you have visited. Dooks was a discovery of a traditional
links golfing experience that dates back to 1889, making it one of the oldest courses in Ireland. Martin Hawtree was
engaged to extensively update the course in 2002 and the results of his efforts are fabulous. Walking from the first green to the
second tee box revealed the views of Dingle and the McGillycuddy Reeks, the highest mountains in Ireland visible from every
hole the rest of the way. It made for a fantastic variety of sights and alignments, augmented by persistent, yet not encumbering
wind. As much as we enjoyed the course, Dooks’ clubhouse was equally as enjoyable, making us all feel as well looked after and
welcomed as if we were members.
That night we put on our sports coats (it was not required) and dined at The Malton’s fine restaurant, called Peppers, hosted by Conor Hennigan, The Malton’s manager. One of the greatest myths about Ireland is that the food is bland. I have found it to be completely the contrary. The food is luscious, sophisticated and impeccably prepared. So good, in fact, that I would happily travel Ireland simply for a culinary tour if there were no golf on the island at all! I feasted on pan-seared scallops to start and a delicious sea bass as my main course. Heavy servings of laughter and warm friendship, so ample in Ireland, were also in abundance.
The next morning was an off-day for golf. Such a concept may seem like blasphemy to many but we
wanted to allow enough time to fully appreciate the stunning natural beauty of the Ring of Kerry as we wound
our way down toWaterville (www.WatervilleGolfLinks.ie). The Ring of Kerry did not disappoint as the views
were plentiful (note comment above) and each possessed a beauty that was hard to describe. What’s more, since the first time I made this trek many years
ago, the roads have improved measurably, such that a glimpse of this little slice of heaven doesn’t make one feel as though they are only moments from heaven
itself.
We checked into theWaterville House, after catching the waning minutes of the Liverpool game (happy to report they won) at one of the peat-fire warmed pubs along the way that dotted our path. The Waterville House is owned by the same group that owns the golf course. It is a B & B, meaning that the feeling one gets is that they are a guest in someone’s home (only if your friend had a house like this you may not ever depart). Due to their connection to the golf course, the Waterville House has its own driving range, putting green and two practice holes (two-tiered green with multiple tee boxes and bunkers, effectively providing for multiple holes).
After another full-Irish-breakfast start (perhaps this trip should have been sponsored by Lipitor), we set off for the
course. We were greeted at the door by Waterville’s Secretary/Manager, Noel Cronin, a man who is legendary for his
hospitality. Ireland is often described as being a mystical place andWaterville embraces the quintessential essence of this
reality. As one of Ireland’s finest championship links courses, the likes of none other than Tiger Woods and the late
Payne Stewart (a memorial statue dedicated to Stewart sits along side of the 18th green) used Waterville to hone their
games, prior to the Open Championship in the United Kingdom. The course measures a meaty 7,325 yards, par 72, from
the tips. Although golf has been played on this property dating back to 1889 with the arrival of the trans-Atlantic cable, Waterville bears the artist touch of
Irish architect Eddie Hackett and more recently, Tom Fazio, and is annually included in any credible list as one of the finest
courses in the world. Marked by wild dunes, soaring views and distinctive routing and green complexes, Waterville is
simply a must on anyone’s agenda. As to its embrace of the mystical, the 12th Hole deserves mention. The par 3, that
measures just under 200 yards is played from the top of one dune to an equally perched green atop of another massive
dune. Ocean winds conspire to alter your ball’s desired path, yet the green is considerably larger and more receptive than
one would think from the view at the tee. Originally, the green was intended to be built at the bottom of the deep and flat
valley between these huge mounds, but the Irish laborers who built the course simply refused, noting that piece of ground
as Sacred. Jay Connolly, a director at Waterville explained that it was on that piece of land that the Irish people used to
celebrateMass during a period of their tortured history when the practice of their religion was banned by occupying forces.
The dunes provided the faithful with protection from the elements and their peaks made for viewing outposts that could
spot soldiers coming from far away, giving the locals the chance to disperse.
Every now and then golf becomes a conduit to something more than just playing a game, for as the views may come cheap, their real value is priceless. For more information on Southwest Ireland, visit www.SwingGolfIreland.com.
Editor's Note: Matt Adams is a golf journalist, best-selling author (Chicken Soup for the Soul, Fairways of Life) host of the Fairways of Life show on the PGA TOUR Network and a member of their PGA TOUR Live broadcast team. To hear audio from his Irish tour or see a photo gallery, visit: www.FairwaysofLife.com
