SIASCONSET, Mass., September 20 — The New England golf season starts early and ends late on Cape Cod and the islands. Which makes October — after tourists have fled the beaches and scrub pines in search of Vermont foliage — the perfect time to play fall golf on Nantucket.
Don’t want to miss out on the annual New England foliage? Here’s a well-kept secret that locals weary from the summer onslaught are wary of sharing: Leaves turn brilliant reds, oranges, and yellows by the ocean as well as up north. And you’ll have far fewer leaf-peepers to elbow out of the way for that prize-winning snapshot.
If you’re looking for golf, here’s an even better reason to put Nantucket on your fall itinerary: Sankaty Head Golf Club. Completely private during the high season, this exquisite gem 24 miles out to sea opens its links-style fairways to the hoi polloi in October and May.
By air or by sea. Getting to Nantucket is a breeze. Hop a direct Cape Air flight from Boston (about $330 round trip) or a Hyannis-to-Nantucket round-tripper ($112). Nantucket Air and Island Airlines will fly you from and to Hyannis for $112 as well. If you prefer traversing the 26-mile puddle to jumping it, your most economical option is the Steamship Authority’s speedy one-hour ($65 round-trip) or two-hour-plus jaunt ($33) from Hyannis.
You won’t want to schlep your car to Nantucket, where parking is at a premium. Instead, Diane’s Taxi (508-221-5399) offers a knowledgable, enjoyable ride, as well as plenty of room for you and your foursome’s golf sacks.
Sankaty Head. Located at the eastern end of the island in Siasconset (pronounced Scon-set), Sankaty Head was built in 1923. Ranked No. 89 on Golfweek’s 2010 roster ofTop 100 classic courses, it is as laid-back an atmosphere as you’ll find at an exclusive golf sanctuary.
From the weathered shingles of the clubhouse and no-frills Yankee decor of the dining area and bar, to the walkers-welcome policy, Sankaty Head is no swanky country club. It’s not even the most challenging course you’ll play. The greens are relatively slow, there is only one water hole, and the fairways are wide open. The rating and slope are 72.9 and 130 from the tips and 72.7 and 124 from the front tees.
But, you’ll want to return to the par-72, 18-hole track for its impeccable fairways and greens, breathtaking surroundings, and the profound tranquility it inspires. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the course takes advantage of its seaside environment from nearly every scenic view.
A frickin’ lighthouse! The layout’s most unusual aspect is its proximity to the Sankaty Head Lighthouse, a 70-foot, white-with-red-band, quintessentially New England structure with a black top whose lantern flashes every 7.5 seconds. The historic watchtower looms over almost every shot on the front nine, which makes for a unique round of golf.
“There’s a frickin’ lighthouse on the golf course!” exclaimed a delighted Meg Watson, a low-handicapper from New Hampshire who played the course in May for the first time.
Indeed, the fifth hole’s vicinity to the 160-year-old working beacon makes the 423-yard par-4 (362 yards from the forward tees) the club’s signature hole. Be sure to scarf a up a few of the coordinated black, white, and red tees on your way to the first hole.
Sea breezes. Sankaty Head neophytes may also discover they need more club on many shots, because, despite the generous fairways, there’s plenty of trouble lurking at the ocean-side layout. The prevailing sea breezes and tall fescue grasses can wreak havoc with your round, which plays at 6,711 yards from the tips and 5,584 yards from the front tees.
Oh, and be sure to keep your shots below the holes.
“The greens at Sankaty Head have a great deal of slope on them,” cautioned head pro Mark Heartfield. “They are extremely fast if you are above the pin, and very difficult to read when you are on the side of the pin.”
Golf fees. Call 508-257-6391 a day in advance to make a tee time. Rates are $135 to walk, $160 to ride, and $650 for the entire off-season.
Noshing on Nantucket. After battling the wind at Sankaty Head, treat yourself to dinner at American Seasons, where you’ll want to sup in casual elegance on the candlelit patio (heated in the off-season) or the cozy dining room. A mere chip shot from downtown Nantucket, chef/owner Michael LaScola’s modern American menu features local and seasonal produce and an award-winning list of more than 500 American wines.
Just a tad more downscale is Arno’s, an informal bistro on Main Street. The 50-year old restaurant (in its fifth year of new ownership) with high ceilings and brick walls offers locally sourced items for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Where to stay. You can barely walk a block in downtown Nantucket without passing an historic inn. Off-season deals abound at the Jared Coffin House ($150/night), the White Elephant ($195/night), and other landmark lodges.
Another option is the Centerboard Guest House B&B ($165/night), directly across the street from American Seasons. The rooms are spacious and charming with free access to wi-fi. And you can’t beat innkeeper James Blunt’s homemade breakfast granola.
You can’t beat New England for golf in the spring, summer, or fall. If your travels take you to Maine, check out The Ledges, Brad Booth’s masterpiece along the scenic New Hampshire and southern Maine seacoast.
(Emily Kay is a regular contributor to New England Golf Monthly. Check her out at the Boston Golf Examiner and National Golf Examiner websites.)
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